“A suit tells the world you are ready for business. A jacket tells the world you are open to fun. For me the ideal jacket should have soft and natural lines and balanced proportions. It should fit you but not constrict you.
I do not believe in stiff shoulder pads.
That is vanity, not style. Do not make it too tight. If it’s too tight, you will look like a matador. Any time I see a man playing golf or tennis in his jacket, I know he and I could be friends.”—
I’ve been searching for someone to make me a nice, handcrafted leather belt, and in my quest, I came across Bertrand Montillet - a highly talented Parisian who learned his trade through technical school and then perfected it while working for Hermes. Monsieur Montillet makes every kind of accessory you can think of. Bags and cases for musical instruments and eyewear, card holders and wallets, and, of course, belts. These can be made from your regular run of fine calfskins, or something from the exotic side of the market, such as crocodiles, ostriches, and stingrays. Since everything is custom, the client’s imagination is the only limit.
I came by Montillet’s work through this thread at StyleForum, where member T4phage reported on a blue sharkskin belt he commissioned from Montillet. The Parisian craftsman was kind enough to document how he made the piece through a series of photos.
I thought I’d share some photos today that Mina at Napoli Su Misura has posted over the years at StyleForum. In their five short years of existence, Napoli Su Misura has become one of the most talked about firms among those on the bleeding edge of bespoke tailoring. Whereas some tailoring houses use the traveling tailors model to reach new markets, Napoli Su Misura has made it the crux of their business. That means more men abroad can now appreciate the soul and expertise of Neapolitan craftsmanship while their feet are firmly planted on home soil.
Pictured here are some of Napoli Su Misura’s sport coats. As you can see, they emphasize a very masculine silhouette. The chest is sculpted and the upper arms made full. At the same time, everything is soft, light, and curvy. The quarters are opened a bit so that there is a graceful line going from the top of the lapels down to the hem, and the soft, unpadded shoulder give a nice rounded, natural line. In addition, the curved barchetta pocket and waterfall sleevehead tell the jacket’s provenance.